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Boating NZ : FREE TO READ March 2014
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Destination Better than Bora Whangaroa Harbour Words and photos by Stephen Prinselaar J If you’ve ever dreamed of anchoring under the mountains of Bora Bora in Tahiti, wake up to Whangaroa Harbour and experience the Kiwi version – it is grander, friendlier and easier to reach. There can be 2 to 3 knots of tide at ust 25 sea miles north-west of the Ninepin that marks the northern entrance to the Bay of Islands, Whangaroa is one of New Zealand’s safest and most spectacular harbours – and getting there is just as wonderful. The Cavalli Islands are an attractive stop for lunch before rounding Flat Island then, surprisingly, heading due south for the narrow, 280-metre wide entrance that opens up into coves under high bluffs. 62 Boating New Zealand March 2014 the entrance but, once through, you have, on port side, Kingfish Lodge with moorings for patrons available on request. It’s a place to relax for a meal or a night in their new accommodation while enjoying the hospitality that has welcomed serious game fishers from around the world since the 1930s. Kingfish Lodge, whose jetty is pictured above, faces the Great Western Arm which splits into two bays. To the left side, Lane’s Cove secrets the highlight of Whangaroa: towering vertical rock faces that spawn a spectacular waterfall. It flows down into a bush canopied stream which is navigable by dinghy or kayak. It feels like the land that time forgot and it’s easy to imagine a pterodactyl soaring overhead. Heading south into the greater harbour, you pass through another narrow entrance guarded by the bush-clad Peach Island. Again, to the east or west there are several snug anchorages tucked into the mainland or in Milford Island. Despite, or because of, the cosy isolation, Whangaroa has a thriving bar scene. Further up the harbour, there’s the historic Whangaroa Hotel with restaurant and bar in the main street, across the road from the new marina. There’s a fuel wharf and a general store to provide for basic provisions; this has a small museum with a fascinating insight and souvenirs
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