Boating NZ : FREE TO READ April 2014
subscribe online at www.mags4gifts.co.nz/boating-nz 65 However Dale Pennington, who employed boatbuilder Ian Davies to spline Ngaio, favours wider splines. Davies splined Ngaio with a router using a tapered bit approximately 10mm wide at the top, narrowing to 8mm at the bottom. Prior to cutting, lightly nail a fair batten to the hull at a pre- determined distance down from the seam to act as a guide for the cutting tool. Depending on the condition of the plank seams, adjust the tool to give a spline depth of around 80 per cent to 90 per cent of the plank thickness. Splines should be cut from the same timber species, density and moisture content as the original planking. Splines are most easily cut on a bench saw with the blade tilted to give the same taper as the groove. The splines should be a little deeper than the groove so they finish proud of the planking; the extra is faired off after the glue has set. The splines should be checked for fit, prior to gluing, and the grooves wiped with meths to remove any contamination. Typically, light nails hold the splines in position until the glue cures and then removed. Splines can be installed consecutively top and bottom like PART II – SPLINING, SHEATHING AND PAINTING MAIN PHOTO: Cutting splining grooves on the classic launch Waimiga. TOP: Splines glued in, temporarily held with wire nails. ABOVE: Splines cut, ready for fitting. LEFT: Wayne Olsen of Horizon Boats is a staunch believer in sheathing classics. RIGHT TOP: Applying fibreglass cloth to Ngaio, a labour-intensive job. ABOVE & BELOW: Ngaio splined prior to fairing and after splining and sealing her fasteners. Note wide splines. REGULAR_PB_fibreglass PTII_April14.indd 65 18/03/2014 5:27:01 p.m.
FREE TO READ March 2014
FREE TO READ May 2014